DERTHONA Colli Tortonesi

Only a few people know this native Piedmont variety, Timorasso, which, in the best case, produces terroir wines full of energy that are hard to find in today's Italy. But thank God that a Walter Massa – a robust man with principles and a vision, one of us, in other words – took on Timorasso decades ago and not only saved it from extinction. No, he saved the variety for the here and now, where Massa presses great wines from it, wines that demand patience from us, wines that need air (carafe) and space (Burgundy glass) to develop. But then, yes, then they are indescribably fun to drink. And it was precisely this factor, the one-man entertainment qualities of Timorasso, that led Giovanni, Roberto and Francesco to get their hands on a small vineyard in a prime location and try their hand at Timorasso.

This white wine is a stunner and brims with self-confidence, with a heavenly scent of ripe peaches, cassis and a hint of quince – the quince plays the bass. A thread runs through the palate that couldn't be straighter, everything seems to be aligned with it, neatly lined up and starting with a pleasant density; then the indescribable energy hits you in the face with the dry extract, the acid sets in and the wine prances incessantly through the palate, light as a feather but with a powerful presence. The finish is magnificent, long of course, but what is even more fascinating is the unexpected texture, which makes the tongue click again and again in disbelief. Well done, the three of you!