You won’t find a more renowned – or indeed more spectacular – vineyard in the Sancerre appellation than Monts Damnés. This is where the finest, best and most impressive Sauvignon Blancs in the entire appellation are grown. Right next door, in the Pain Perdu vineyard – yes, that really is its name – something absolutely delicious is also grown, which Jennifer and Thibault are particularly fond of. And when the yields from Pain Perdu and Monts Damnés are as low as they were this year, the result is a single wine – a wonderfully mineral one. Unlike other winemakers, and perhaps somewhat unusual for us, the Denizots entrust their Monts Damnés to wooden casks – demi-muids, which hold 600 litres, and cigares, which hold 325 litres of wine. But don’t worry, the barrels aren’t new – or rather, one of them was new, so the wine had taken on a hint of aroma; however, this doesn’t bother me at all with this wine; on the contrary, I rather like this slightly smoky note, which reminds me a little of Dagueneau’s wine from Sancerre. The aroma of this wine is fascinating and complex, ranging from floral tones through fruity notes – lime and citron are the main players – to a hint of elderflower, which makes the aroma so wonderfully expressive. Dense and spectacularly vibrant, the wine fills the palate and displays a powerful presence before revealing its zesty side and setting the mouth watering profusely. Its finish is long and wonderfully mineral. Now that’s Sauvignon Blanc done right!