Roero Anime Nere Vigneto Eroico

Wow, what a wine! To be honest, I’ve never had a Nebbiolo like this in my glass before. It differs in so many ways from everything else we know and love about this noble grape variety. But let’s start at the beginning: the terroir is something I’ve never seen before, and I’ve seen quite a few. I know of no other vineyard in Piedmont with a slope like this – or, as we would call it, a vineyard with a 35 per cent gradient. The vines grow on small terraces and are rooted in fine, light, bluish sand that is rich in minerals. It goes without saying that every task here is carried out by hand, and there are many of them. Manuele’s Nebbiolo is endemic; the grapes hang smaller and looser on the bunches of his Nebbiolo. Manuele does not use copper or sulphur in the vineyard, but relies on alternative, plant-based, invasive, holistic methods. Yes, I feel the same as you, for I have never heard of such a thing, let alone seen it, yet it is wonderful that someone is making the effort and beginning to revolutionise vineyard work.

As spectacular as the vineyard and the way Manuele tends it are, his work in the cellar is just as classic (in the best sense of the word). All the grapes are destemmed and undergo spontaneous fermentation – so no yeasts are added. The extraction period is relatively short, as is the alcoholic fermentation. Yes, Manuele works in the traditional manner with the ‘cappello sommerso’, which means he presses the cap of pomace (i.e. the grape skins) beneath the surface of the juice and keeps it there for the entire duration of extraction and fermentation. The wine is aged in wood, which is, however, aroma-neutral – in other words, already used.

This process yields a magical Nebbiolo with an indescribably seductive aroma; there is a hint of sweetness at play – delicate red berry fruit – but spicy notes are also present, combining to create a devilishly hot bouquet. The wine feels fine, almost delicate, on the palate. Tannins are virtually non-existent – or simply masterfully integrated. The acidity is balanced and a slightly lower pH provides the freshness, which makes the wine fresh but not sour; I almost said ‘somewhat piquant’. ‘Is this for me?’, you ask yourself? Yes, perhaps it is. But only if you’re into wines defined by elegance and finesse, a world away from those unspeakably over-extracted, over-oaked wines you usually come across. It’s likely to be a challenge, though, getting hold of one of these ultra-rare bottles, as Manuele produces a maximum of 2,000 of them. So good luck!